Updated:2024-09-28 04:54 Views:94
When Julius Roberts planted his tomatoes in Februaryjili178, he knew that, come July, he would be greeted by plants much bigger than he is, some growing as tall as two and a half meters. (For the Americans, that’s eight feet and change.) He also knew that, come August, then September, October, even early November, his larder would be spilling over with sunlit fruit as the season’s leaves started to turn and the hot weather relented in the English countryside, where he lives. According to Roberts, a 31-year-old farmer and cook, when you’ve got a good tomato, all you need is olive oil and salt, maybe a piece of toast rubbed with garlic. But when you’ve got a glut of good tomatoes, so many that you can’t keep up, it’s time to reacquaint yourself with the stove and make a curry.
This recipe, from Roberts’s debut cookbook, “The Farm Table” (Ten Speed Press, 2024), helps you make a sizable dent in your basket, as it calls for roasting two and a half pounds of tomatoes whole, slowly, until they slacken and reduce, concentrating in flavor and running red, orange and gold juices all over the pan like watercolors. As they roast in the oven, you can build their spiced coconut bath on the stove. A slow, steady cooking process is part of this curry’s promise, so take your time frying down the onions in the base, until they’re properly sweet and tender. Roberts says he drew inspiration from South Asian curries, in which you temper whole spices in oil to enjoy their musky fullness; it’s different than using just ground, though a little turmeric pigments the sauce an eggy gold. While eating this curry, he quite likes stumbling across a cardamom pod, star anise or cinnamon stick and sucking the rich gravy out of it, the individual spice perfuming that one bite with unparalleled strength. I quite like the coriander seeds, which soften and lend grassinessjili178, an echo of the tomatoes’ vines, which themselves carry an inescapable aroma.
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